Thursday, April 29, 2010

Last German Blog

It's official. In less than 48 hours I will be leaving Berlin and heading back home (and it feels like, back to reality). Honestly, trying to fathom and reflect upon this experience in its entirety is nearly impossible. There were stretches when I was absolutely miserable, others were I was content, others were I would have given anything to be on the next flight home, and now it's a pretty even melange of sadness to leave and excitement to be home.

It's a shame I have to leave just when the weather is getting nice... we had the coldest winter on record in Berlin (and why wouldn't that be the case--it is my life we're talking about). I spent last night at a beer garten, yesterday bike riding along the Spree River, and Sunday in a park laying on the grass drinking beer. I usually don't like the outdoors, and even though all this outside time has given me a really cool necklace and watch tan line (when I say tan because it's me we all know it means burn) I feel invigorated to see Berlin with new eyes.

Tonight is the farewell dinner, which is a momentously sad and happy occasion. I have tried to come up with funny superlatives for members of IES as a sort of "goodbye, Annie Style". For example one category is, "Most Likely to Have His Girlfriend Stolen by Buddy Holly at a Hop" directed at a guy who dresses like he thinks he's James Dean. It's good natured though, promise. I thought about giving the bitchy girl "Miss Congeniality" but I figured I should be above it (although, who am I kidding, I'm not). But as another, "goodbye, Annie Style" I have compiled in a style, similar to that of Allure Magazine's "beauty by the numbers", a "Berlin by the numbers". Enjoy:

DEUTSCHLAND BY THE NUMBERS
Countries Visited: 6 (Germany, Sweden, Czech Republic, France, Russia, U. K.)
Credit Hours: 16
Classes: 5
IES Students: 25
Host Mothers: 2
Bowls Broken causing the infamous "bowl gate": 1
Irish Stag Partiers whose Stag Party I crashed: 12
Awkward Confrontations in Russia with Bitchy girl: 2
Bitchy comments directed at me by said girl: Millions
Time's Denied Entry to Flam's: 1
Times men masturbated to me on the S-bahn: 1 (too many!)
Former Dutch Prostitutes Met: 1
Novels Read: 5
Novels Read in the Twighlight Series: 2
Times Attended White Trash Fast Food: 4
Strip Clubs Attended: 3
Late Night Doeners: too many to count
Height of New Zealander I stupidly challenged to a drinking contest: 6' 7''
Glass Shelves Shattering Resulting in Stitches: 1
Number of Stitches: 2
Cost to Replace Shelve: 17 Euros
Cost to Replace Foot: 50$ co-pay

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Leipzig, Ich liebe dich!

You know that feeling you get when you snuggle with a puppy in the sunshine while eating your favorite food, listening to your favorite music, and then Jesus comes and hands you a 100 dollar bill? Ok, that's what it's like to be in Leipzig with the Lipps. As most of you know, two years ago I spent six weeks in the summer studying abroad in Leipzig and stayed with the Lipp family. Finally, after two years, and on the week before I leave Berlin to go back to the U.S., I was able to visit the Lipps again. I was hopping like a little bunny when I got off the train and Ina was waiting for me at the station. It was like I could finally exhale! Ina and I hugged and kissed and this time, unlike last, I can speak a little German (albeit poorly) so we traded German inquires as to health ex cetera. As we drove through Leipzig everything looked familiar but different, a lot of construction has gone on. And when we pulled up to number 7, it was the best feeling. Even though the Lipps have remodeled their house and its now three stories instead of two...it smelled the same and it was like I never left! Even better, Ina had kuchen und kaffee (cake and coffee) waiting for me on the balcony. I love this woman!

The rest of the visit was so quick, but I got to see Nellus (my host brother) who is now a studly man with his own apartment that I'm sure is driving the women all insane, Basti and Marcus who I was also friends with last time, my favorite Museum, and a Schumann concert. Also, last time I was in Leipzig I gained like 20 lbs, and I couldn't figure out why, because I walked a lot and didn't eat junk food, and didn't drink that much beer...I know why, now. Ina is the best hostess/cook and she feeds you until you're about to burst but how can you say no?! Anyway, the whole weekend was a breath of fresh air, and being babied and molly-coddled (as my Scottish friends would say) made me even more ready to see my Mommy and have her love me and be nice to me. She's vowed to follow me around like a puppy and braid my hair and cuddle me and probably, she thinks, annoy me, but I'm strangely looking forward to it. I almost typed strangley, just then, that may be apt.

This is my last week in Berlin, and while I am ready to go home, I will miss it. Undoubtedly. I spent today outside in the sun, at this great park where they have a flea market and music and everyone just chills outside on blankets and drinks, etc. Then Steve, Kyle and I went to this place called "Fat Ass Pizza" which again, is apt. Then we got ice cream and walked around and people watched in Prenzlauerberg. It's a shame I have to leave right when the weather is getting amazing. And it's also a shame the weather is getting good right when I have exams all week. P.S. You know the expression, "Couldn't care less?" I have never understood the feeling of not being humanly possible of caring a smaller amount the way I understand it now in regards to exams. I just. Don't. Care. I want to see the sights, get my last time in with friends I've made on the program, and I just can't be bothered to study. I love that phrase, "can't be bothered"...because that's exactly how I feel. Like terribly inconvienced by responsibility.

Alright, well I will at least do one final entry, "Deutschland by the Numbers," as promised. And maybe one more in addition. I hope. But in reality, it's possible I can't be bothered.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Damn it, Iceland!

As if one needed more reasons to be angry at Iceland...a terrible volcanic eruption issued clouds of volcanic ash that prevented any flights from taking off Friday morning. I was supposed to be on a flight Friday to Munich! URGH! And so Steve called me with the news and we met at the train station to see if we could get train tickets, but they were like 300$ round trip, which is OUTRAGEOUS! So I was pretty much not paying for it under any circumstances. So, I am in Berlin this weekend, which isn't a bummer, because I love Berlin, but is a bummer, because I've never been to Munich and this is another time I won't be able to go.

In good news, I am officially an intern for a Senator in D.C. this summer. Kind of a big deal, right? I love when things work out for me, probably because it is a legitimately rare occurance. See Munich example. And as my trip is winding down I am starting to get a little panicky about having to leave Berlin. Not that I won't be absolutely thrilled to be home...it's just that Berlin is my place. It gets me. I get it. I love that it's kind of rough around the edges, and that there is an artists' squat in the middle of prime real estate that no offficial is making leave. I love that their are "renter's rights" that make it almost impossible for areas to be gentrified. I love that coffee is 1 Euro or less to go, (as opposed to Starbucks). I love that nothing ever closes and the S-Bahn runs all night. Ah Berlin. I feel like I'll be wierdly in appropriate for life in the U.S. Like I will have forgotten how to adjust. And the first time I'm at a party, and someone offers me beer...and it's a BEAST and not a Flensburger, I might cry.

Berlin has taught me a lot about myself. First of all, I can handle a lot. I am strong. I know that sounds like a creepy affirmation to be chanted at some sort of wierd camp, but it has proven to be true. People can throw a lot at me and I still come through, maybe not smelling like a rose, maybe not as gracefully as an Audrey Hepburn or Julia Roberts, but I come through. Secondly, I realized I bring the party. Seriously, I MAKE fun happen. I'm that girl that goes into a club with three people and starts dancing, but not only dancing, buying everyone shots and teaching them line dances. I am THAT girl. And I'm proud to be that girl. Some people are so annoyingly unhappy. People on the trip have complained about everything from A to Z, and it's like "you know what, you're in Berlin (Paris, St. Petersburg, Stockholm, Edinburgh) get over it!" Like on our Russia trip, "If I have to look at another castle I'm going to f--ing die." Really? REALLY!? There are some people who never even get to see the fake castle at Disney Land and you're complaining about too many?! So because I never want to sound like THAT person, I am thankful for every opportunity I get. And studying in Berlin an entire semester, wow, that's an opportunity, right?

I have done some less serious reflections and I have a "Berlin by the Numbers" which will crack everyone but I'm sure. It quantifies my ridiculous experiences, which have been vast. I mean, VAAAAAST. Thinks happen to me that don't happen to anyone else in the U.S....imagine this in Deutschland, it is OBSCENE.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

"Ich bin ein Berliner!"

So just fyi, everyone knows that is incorrect German, right? In German you aren't "a student" or "an American" you "are American" or "are Student." So when JFK said, "Ich bin ein Berliner" he said, not "I am a Berliner" but instead, "I am a jelly donut", which is what "berliner" with an article is. Every has that? Ok, but I entitled my blog that because I feel like I finally am "a Berliner" or "Ich bin Berliner". I actually also live now about 400 m from where JFK gave that speech, I finally live in the West. Actually East Berlin is cooler in a lot of ways, but not the way that involves me living in bumble fuck nowhere with a crazy-bitch. But East Berliner has been restored and it's where all the "bo bo" want to live. Which is a term I like a lot, it means "bohemian bourgeoisie" think of Dublin moms who shop at whole foods and insist on hybrid cars. But there are a lot of them in Germany, and they all live in Prenzlauerberg in former East Germany.

So I have been just walking around the city, finding hot spots, bars, restaurants, every place I go I find something completely different that I've never seen before. Plus, I'm finally really starting to feel like part of the IES group. With the exception of bitchy comments from a certain someone, I really have had no problems with anyone. And I mean, one has to consider the source, the bitchy comments stem from a girl who is just plain unpleasant, and it really only makes her look like a pyschopath. Other people are starting to notice. And this girl said to Steve, "You're so nice. I try to be nice but I never can." and she said it like, "isn't that a fun idosyncracy" and everyone in the group sort of responded with, "um actually you shouldn't be proud of that. That's a tragic personality flaw." So people are catching on. And because I just let it roll of my back, she looks foolish. Which she is. I mean how hard is it to BE CIVIL. I don't seek her out, I don't want to be her friend, but I have never said anything rude or mean. Why would I? I mean, damn, I've thought it...but there was an incident when she told me off and said, "I've hated you from the very beginning," and all I could think was, "God, that's sad. I haven't given two thoughts about you." So, to sum up, I win!

I hope I come back to Germany, I would love to live here or in Edinborough or somewhere not in the U.S. I don't belong there. I have such a different mentality. It would be hard to live in Berlin though, they're not an easy bunch to get to know unless you have an "in". But I think it would be fun to work in a hostel, get to know all kinds of different people from all over the world...I'm becoming much more open to the ideal of travel. I might even like to go to Panama to visit Jeanie and then backpack a little bit around central america. I might even try to learn Spanish, it can't be that hard. In fact I know that it isn't that hard. Look at me, I am unstoppable!

So I guess this is more meandering and considerably less funny than I intended, but you know. I can't be on all the time. Although, I did meet Laurel's friends from home and they all said within 10 minutes of meeting me that I should have my own talkshow. I think I should, I would watch it. No one has any idea of all the shit that's flying around in my brain. I could tell the most ridiculous stories, wierd things that only happen to me. Like the time I was in Prague and I met a pack of men with handle bar mustaches...or the time in Berlin I lived with a crazy lady...or the time I spent Easter in a sex museum...or the time... on and on.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Czech Yo-Self

Ok, so firstly, patent pending on the Czech Yo-Self. I'm going to Prague and selling t-shirts. They had "Czech me out" of which I bought a shot glass, but still, I am going to make bank on this. So back off!

After coming back from Russia I moved into my new house, which I love. My host brother and sister are so funny. I watched the Bayern-Munchen/Man United game with my host brother. Trash talking in German is one of the best phenomenons that have been invented. Because "I love you" in German sounds like trash talk. Actual trashing coming from ten year old lips, it's like the nectar of the gods.

So, after relaxing (and writing a lot of papers) for the first half of the week, Thursday morning I left for Prague via train. Last time I was in Germany, I booked the train from Leipzig to Berlin, and I reserved a seat for like 8 extra euro, but the train was empty. SO I assumed it was just a complete scam. It might have been smarter, however, to consider that it was EASTER WEEKEND and that people would be flocking to visit their relatives. So the first leg of the trip, I spent sitting in the aisle way on top of my Vera Bradley luggage. Cool. So needless to say, I arrived in Prague a little cranky and sore. But when I got to my hostel, "the Czech Inn" which I chose, in all honesty, solely for the pun, I saw Andrew Walchuk and the heavens parted and the sun came out and I was so happy and excited. It's been 8 months. We could have gestated a baby almost. And we might. Still.

Traveling with Andrew was perfect. We were both completely open to anything. So Thursday evening we just wondered about the square, and there was this huge Easter market with artisans (a very good looking blacksmith) and painted Easter eggs, and all kinds of sausage and bread and candies. Also, we went into this restaurant, and I had 1/4 of a duck...with beer, bread, and apple streudel and cream for desert, for like 6 euros. Yay for the former Soviet Bloc and their reasonable prices (due to their probably still depressed economy but we won't dwell). Also, that Thursday night, I was walking along and I saw the most impressive array of handle-bar mustaches in the form of a group of older British men. So I naturally said, "Those are some fine looking mustaches." And they said, "Well then gorgeous, let's have this bloke your with take a picture." So forever I will associate Prague with British men and mustaches. Which you know, there could be worse associations definitely. When Andrew and I got back to the hostel bar we thoughorly enjoyed the 1 dollar beer happy hours and we met these three really pretensious guys from Boston, all blueblood brothers, and we went out and partied with them at this random spot complete with hip happening music...from 2004.

The next day, lest you all think I have no culture, Andrew and I went to churches, Prague castle, and wondered around the Jewish synagogues. The Jewish ghetto in Prague is so beautiful and well preserved, it's like nothing you've seen in Europe. Which incidently doesn't really have a high Jewish population anymore...weird. Oh wait, I know why that might be. Then after spending so much time on culture, Andrew and I decided to do the pub crawl. Which was insane. All you drink absyth shots, beer, etc for a low price of 14 Euros. We met these British guys and I ended up hanging out with them for most of the trip, especially after Andrew left. Our meeting came about because they were wearing cardigans...and I went up to them and said, "you know only British men wear cardigans. I bet your from Britain." Right I was, so I think I ended up offending them, which is ok. Because we were friends by the end of the night.

After a delcious breakfast at Bohemian bagel, Andrew and I went to the dancing house and just walked along the river and talked about Andre. It was a really nice low-key day. And in the evening, Andrew didn't want to go too big, but I convinced him to go to this "video party 80s and 90s night" which played crappy old music videos and was sooooooo fun. We went with the Brits and got up and danced on stage. And there was this guy there that was obviously a serial killer in the making, so we naturally decided to provoke him by taking pictures with him in it without his permission, and we joked that after we left the club he would be dubbed, "the Prague tram stabber", because everyone on his tram home was probably slain.

So, that's essentially my trip...oh and on the resurection of Christ I celebrated by visiting, "the Sex Machine Museum" which may have effectively made me A-sexual. It was worth doing though, I tell you what, we don't have that shit in the U.S.!

Love and Hugs, Annie

Monday, March 29, 2010

"You Want Vacation? Go to Cabo St. Lucas."

Sorry my blogs have been so few and far between. I know my mom is annoyed particularly by this. This, I promise, will be long and funny, so hopefully it will quench your thirst for Annie.

So, I just got back from St. Petersburg, Russia. Which is ridiculous. I don't know how to even describe it. Since St. Petersburg is the "European" Russian city, (per Peter the Great's wishes) it looks very much like any other European city. And the palaces are like Versailles on crack, because the Czar's had no budget (probably because they didn't care if the common folk had only borscht and potatoes to eat). But aside from aesthetics, Russia is nothing like Western Europe. For example, the first day we got there are guide "welcomed us" with the most fatalistic speech I've ever heard in my life. I couldn't stop laughing. She said, "Welcome to Russia. It is so cold here always, if you get two days of sun in a month, you are lucky. It is always cloudy." And then she gave us a tour of buildings, etc. and pointed out the KGB building and she said, "Here is joke, building is so high you can see Siberia from window." And we're thinking, that's a horrible joke! That's like me saying, want to hear a joke? Aids in Africa. Haha! But anyway... I was doing a Russian accent and embellishing her speech a little with thinks like, "You want vacation?! Go to Cabo St. Lucas. You want potato and cold, you come Russia. It is shit hole. Always, shit and cold." Which I think ending up annoying people around me, but I wouldn't let it die because it was so epically funny to me.

Also, we had a cultural presentation at the University on "Russian Time". Examples of this include stores closed in the middle of the day with a sign that says only "on break". No "back at 10" no "Break 1-2" just "on break". Also the mailboxes have signs that say, "Mail picked up once daily between 9am-5pm". Which is it?! And what if you drop it off at 10am, and they had picked it up already, but the next day they didn't pick it up until 4:30pm? That's two days your mail sat in the box. What if you had to pay a bill?! This isn't a concern apparently, you know I would go insane in this society. Oh and also, the buses are so inefficient, that we walked daily to the University, an hour walk, because the bus literally would take an hour as well. We tried it once, the walkers beat the people on the bus. Can you imagine? If that was the case in New York there would be riots on the street. No wonder the people are so fatalistic... nothing works!

But aside from "Russian time" and general pessimism, I loved Russia. I just couldn't ever spend substantial time there. And as cliche as it sounds, it made me SO glad I was American. We met with students from the Russian University one night and most of them were really cold and unwilling to chat with us, for example, this one kid Leni (who I kept calling Lenin because I thought he said that was his name, which, you know, might not have endeared him to us...) after a painful forced 10 minutes of conversation in an awkward silence says to us, "You know Stalin..." Done. Stick a fork in it, the conversation is officially cooked. And another group of girls had a conversation with me and some other students that went like this, "So you're studying English as a major, have you ever been to America?" "No." "Do you want to go?" "No." "So do you not like American culture?" "No." Ok... But there was one girl who was really interesting and friendly, and I chatted with her for like an hour, which upset all the guys because she was gorgeous and they wanted to chat her up. But she said, for example, that a Russian Car, the Lada, is so bad that she would rather have a 1994 used Opel than a brand new 2010 Lada. That's bad. Also, she said that bribes are common place with police officers. She said that for minor traffic violations they'll say, "Let me see your license" and not give it back unless you pay them the equivalent of about 50 U.S. dollars. She also said that the government arrested a poor rural teacher (teachers, she said, are paid about 200 U.S. dollars a month...NOT enough to live on) for taking a 2$ bribe--when police men take upwards of 5000$ a month. To "set an example". As someone studying to be a teacher she was pretty furious over it.

And it's like that, some people are so warm and friendly, like we met people in bars that bought us rounds, like 6 or 8 of us in a group, when we probably have WAY more money than they do, and wanted to talk with us about everything--and then the students who said basically they hated Americans. It's a weird contrast. But the city itself, is AMAZING. See the pictures of the palaces on my facebook. It's all gold and lapis lazuli and jasper and shit like a golden peacock watch, while peasants starved to death. No wonder there was a revolution. But the palaces weren't the highlight of the trip, that was easily Friday with the ballet and the Baltica beer tasting.

Baltica started in 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union, so Steve and I kept joking, "well it has to be good, they had, oh, almost 20 whole years to perfect the recipe." You know, in contrast to, since 1884 or whatever you see on most beers. And after a tour of the factory, which was really boring (I asked the guy if it would be like Willy Wonka and the Chocolate factory, which he didn't understand at all and said, "There is a chocolate factory in the city center...") we got to taste the beer. They had three tables, and they split our group of 25 into threes with maybe 20 beers on each table, and gave us an hour to "taste". Our table KILLED the beers. We were all kind of drunk at like 3 in the afternoon. It was awesome. And I knocked over a beer with my boob while I reached for something, and then said, "I don't blame myself" to which Eliza responded, my FAVORITE quote of the trip, "If you kill someone with your boobs, they're still your boobs..." On facebook you can see the laughter that ensued afterwards.

Then to the Russian ballet, which was beautiful and amazing, but it was also really hot in the theatre after being in the cold all day, so even with my badass opera glasses I was pretty ready to go by the time the two hours were up. Then I went out to a club with some IESers and we saw an IMPRESSIVE array of rat tails and wife beaters. Also, I participated in a contest where I had to fill an empty glass squeezed between a guys legs, with a squirt gun from a distance. I won, and we got a HUGE fishbowl full of alcohol. Are you proud, Mom?! Again, pictures on facebook.

So now I am back in Berlin, and moved into my new place, which is huge and lovely. Steve showed me around Shoenenberg, and it is also great. Cafes, bars, shopping, great food, parks, people watching, I wish I would have moved sooner! And my host mom was such a bitch she didn't even bother to say goodbye. She was over at her boyfriend's when I moved out. Which is fine with me, I didn't want her watching me anyway. But seriously, what a bitch! My new host family is awesome, a ten year old boy, a thirteen year old girl, a Swiss student, and the mother. We all had homemade noodles together last night and I spoke only German, it was great! Just like the Lipps and what I wanted. I missed that!

I'm off to Prague to meet up with Andrew from D.C. for Easter, something which I can hardly wait for...I love Andrew! And I also get to go to Leipzig to see the Lipps and then Munich for Spring fest! Thanks Mom and Dad! :-)

Monday, March 15, 2010

Back from Scotland

Several Updates:

Firstly, I am moving. I am soooooo happy about it. I haven't really mentioned my host mother that much in my blog, or at least I don't think I have. It's not that she's MEAN per say, it's that she is NEVER there, and weirdly passive aggressive. I feel very unwelcome and uncomfortable in the house. From the beginning, she was an hour late picking me up from IES, and my room wasn't clean or ready, and she hadn't bought groceries with which to cook the first meal (which is REQUIRED). I thought maybe she's just a little bit scatter brained, but no, she cleans and cooks and goes all out whenever HER VISITORS come over. But for me, who would be staying for the next couple months, she didn't bother to make a good first impression. Like, come on! And bowlgate, 2010, I'm sure I've mentioned this. The bowl I dropped that she CANNOT let go. So I talked to Ella the housing lady, and came at the situation like, "I don't know if there is a cultural thing, but we don't seem to be getting along, what can I do?" And when I described the situation to Ella, it was she who suggested I move. She found the house for me a couple hours later, it's in Schönenberg, which is a more traditionally "Berliny" area, Pankow is like old GDRers, which in all honesty are kind of backwater. But S-berg is super hip and trendy, and Steve, my bff in IES lives there, which will make it a lot more fun for me. And Ella took me to visit the apartment, and it's huge and beautiful, very traditional European with an amazing kitchen complete with espresso maker. And my new host mother is very sweet and calming, she has two children, a boy, 10, who is hilarious and a daughter, 13 who stayed in her room but whatever. And there will be a Swiss exchange student who is in the IES German Intensive program which meets downstairs from the Metropolitan Studies program I am in, which means I'll have someone my own age to speak ONLY German to. That's another plus, they speak ONLY German. I should come back fluent.

So, with that sorted out, the only problem is that I can't move from my current apartment until after the St. Petersburg trip which is this Sunday to next Saturday, so needless to say conditions in my apartment are icy and awkward, at best. I'm trying my hardest to just be as pleasant and clean as I possibly can be, keep my head down and stay out of her way until I can leave. Needless to say, I was very happy to be able to be out of the apartment and in Scotland this weekend, but I would have been happy to be in Scotland anyway.

Firstly, Edinburgh is breathtakingly beautiful. I don't know why people from the United States aren't flocking to visit, it's definitely on par with Paris or Rome or London or, I don't know, anywhere in beauty. When the plane landed, your eyes are flooded with castles and beautiful hills and mountains, against a backdrop of the greenest landscape you've ever seen. I was shocked. I guess I shouldn't have been, but I went in search of cool accents and pub food...I had no idea it was so cultured and gorgeous as well.

Evelyn and I got off the plane and into a taxi, and we couldn't meet up with people we knew until later--so we just asked the taxi driver to take us to a main street where pubs and shopping would be. And he's like, okay. Actually, I had been told the main street was "princess street" or at least that's what I understood it to be, but actually it's "Princes street" and the accent just through me off. So I asked the taxi driver, like an idiot, to go to Princess St. and he didn't correct me. So he probably just thought I was American, thus retarded. Sorry guys, poor representation. But so, Evelyn and I went to a pub and ordered the most Scottishy things we could find, Scottish Breakfast for me, which is the ultimate Smorgasbord of meat, potatoes, toast, beans, etc. And I wanted black pudding. But I settled for fish and chips, because this pub didn't have black pudding. Lame.

Later, Evelyn and I met up with our friends from Scotland, and we cooked dinner at their apartment with them and tried meat flavored potato chips; they have smoky bacon, roast chicken and rosemary, etc. Seriously, this country. And the guys, which are the guys we met in Sweden, are so funny. I just like to listen to them make jokes with each other and banter because they're all so different and they get along so well. Bain, for instance, kept making prank phone calls (I know, are we six?!) pretending he was from "The British Nationalist Party" which is like the Nazi party. He said he was renting a conference room and needed the hotel's policy on cross burning, lynching, etc. He also invited the Indian phone man to join. And everyone goaded Lewis into telling the most racist joke I've ever heard, but in a Scottish accent, it sounds charming instead of racist. The punch line is "only for a chocolate biscuit" but in a sing-song voice in heavily accent English. So great.

The next day, Evelyn went off with some friends of hers she met in Berlin that also live in Edinburgh, and I went on a tour with Lewis and Chris, and Chris does tours for a hostel so he was very well-informed. Highlights included, the cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote Harry Potter, Edinburgh Castle featuring statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, the "Thistle Do" Shop (I said, oh like Braveheart, and Lewis said, "yeah, we actually got our national flower from that movie. And Mel Gibson's our prime minister now.") and the tax emblem that all the Scots spit on because it used to be where they had to pay taxes to England. It was super quaint and there were children in the meadows playing rugby and soccer, and everyone is so friendly. I might move immediately.

It was a great weekend, despite the 7 am flight back, and me, like an idiot, getting on the wrong train and going through bumble-fuck nowhere German countryside before finding my way back to Berlin. The whole ordeal took about 2 hours. Ooops!